Some of the people wanting to do the more challenging hikes are disappointed today because the clouds have come down. The hikes can still be done but they will get to their lookout points and not see anything because of the clouds. So I think for this reason, we ended up with the same three couples on our hikes today because we are going easy again and will be much lower in elevation and not have the cloud overhang problem. We are going to hike where we can see Grey Glacier in the morning and then in the afternoon after lunch, a bit more hills around the Grey Glacier area. Nothing too strenuous again but nothing flat as this is Patagonia.
Another lovely breakfast and then layer up the clothing and off in the van again, past the ranger station where we stop for a toilet break but we already have our park passes so less time there and then on to Grey Glacier. The drop off point here is close to one of the hotels inside the park. Our camp is outside the park and expensive enough. Cannot even imagine what they want to charge you to stay inside the park. So plenty of tourists milling about getting ready to hike over to the Grey Lake beach area for viewing of the glacier. We won't be getting up close here like we did Aguila Glacier. There are options to get closer - some of the longer hikes or you can pay extra to paddle a kayak in the lake or take a small cruise to the glacier. Hiking is fine for us this fine, cold, windy, chilly day.
There seems to be a whole lot of people here but as we walk down the path towards the "beach" area, and people are walking across the rocky beach berm towards the hill for the lookout, everyone seems very small as we get spread out. Distances here are so great and the park so big that it just swallows up the people. It is quite windy on the beach area. There are 4 kayaks in the water attempting to navigate around the lookout hill and into the main part of the lake. They are having a spot of trouble tacking against the wind and their guide instructs them to beach the kayaks. He has to hop out of his and run down the beach to catch one of the kayaks because they can't get into the beach - pretty sure that was just incompetence on their part though, new to kayaking probably.
There are two icebergs in the lake. One is almost melted away and is more of a circle of big ice. The other still has plenty of bulk but Chris, our guide, says it will be gone in a week. We climb the hill to see the glacier better. It is pretty far away from us and still massive. No calving while we are there. Have only ever seen glaciers calf in Alaska. On the lookout hill, it isn't quite as windy as there are some trees there protecting us but the wind is straight off the glacier and quite chilly. My long lens is not quite up to the task but we all share Chris' binoculars and see the glacier quite well. It is impressive and one of 3 or 4 in the area that we can see.
Enough looking and then hike back across the beach to the hotel parking lot area where our van driver picks us up to take us to the lunch spot. So this was an easy hike with just the small hill at the end. it was just hard truding across the mile or so of rocky beach and berm to get to the lookout.
Ah lunch. Different sandwich today and I gave up on it before I even ate half of it. I saw a few people turn their containers back into Chris and the driver and they hadn't eaten any more than I did. Don't remember my sandwich choice today but it was worse than the chicken yesterday. the crackers, cheese, ham squares and olives disappeared even faster today as that is pretty much all anyone is eating. How can a catering outfit that does so well for breakfast and dinner do so poorly for a packed lunch? quite disappointing. We had a packed lunch in Easter Island one day which was delicious with roasted chicken and corn and mashed potatoes and gravy. So much better than a dry mystery meat on stale bread with no chips or crisps or fruit or anything else.
We hadn't driven all over the place today to find our lunch spot so we were close to the next hike. This one was up over a couple of hills, to the top of a hill and then down. This one was drop off at one point and get picked up at the end of the hike. We were hiking this one for the views of the lake and glacier and the massif (the mountains). And they were beautiful views. Some of the mountains were covered with clouds until almost the end of the hike. At one point, we could look at the top of one of the "short" mountains and see 4 hikers from our camp. Chris recognised them in his binoculars. Otherwise, no people except us. No guanacos or foxes today. Some birds. Not sure they were condors or not. Didn't seem big enough. The thing about Torres del Paine National Park (besides the massive size) is the beauty. You can just turn 360 degrees anywhere and shoot your camera and be assured of a beautiful shot. The place is magnificent in size and color and natural beauty. I can see how people love coming here and working here and living here. Living here would be hard if you're not in the tourist business but worth it for your soul's beauty.
Back to the camp again around 6:30 or so where we get ready to leave the next day. There is confusion about our time to leave. We are heading back to the Punta Arenas airport and our flight is the afternoon but at first they are wanting us to leave at 7:00 a.m. for a 3 p.m. flight which seems way to early to me. Finally they decide we can leave at 9:30 and be there in time. Thank you.
Another wonderful dinner with lots of wine and good lamb and beef and such. really sorry that we are leaving so soon but trying to see as many different parts of the country as possible. We are missing the high desert this time due to some issues with altitude so hope to hit it on the next visit and will do more of Patagonia as well next time. This will be the last place we need our long underwear also so we pack it away in the bottom of the suitcases. Warm temperatures from tomorrow.
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